Friday, August 22, 2014

Turkish Delight

It's my third day aboard Celedor, a 41' Beneteau , and life is good.


A  map of the Aegean Sea
The Turkish Coast from Izmir toAntalya


My flights and transfers from Orlando to Instanbul to Dalaman, Turkey, went without a hitch. I was seated next to  Irena from Ukraine on the the Trans Atlantic leg, and the flight was so enjoyable with her cheerful company.  Arrived here around noon.


Marmaris Yacht Marina, Adakoy
My Scottish Captain welcomed me aboard graciously.  My cabin was all made up and ready to move into when I arrived. We have already chatted for many hours.  He has traveled and lived worldwide during his career and has a thousand stories of a dozen countries lived in, told with insight and humor. 

It's hot and dry here during the day, so I have been spending mornings working 
on the computer, afternoons by the pool. In the evenings we ride the bus
into Marmaris, where the souk and town come alive with light and sound
into the wee hours of the morning.  Restaurants in the old town beckon, with elegant outdoor dining overlooking the traditional wooden "gulet" boats and yachts med-moored along the quay. 
Dining under the stars along the quay, Marmaris

 A huge fountain dances in the colored lights, the water jets coordinated to music. The illuminated battlements of the castle overlook the bustling waterfront scene. Town is clean, safe, prosperous, and for me, delightfully exotic.  The call of the muezzins echoes through the bustling town, evocative of ancient tradition. Passing by the mosque, I saw the faithful kneeling on red carpets at their evening prayers.
The castle overlooking the harbor
Turkish food is delicious and healthy Mediterranean fare; herbs. peppers, onions, olives
tomato, lamb kebabs, eggplant, and lots of really good yogurt served in varied ways . Mild cheeses may be mixed with savory sesame and nigella seeds for a snack. 


Mezes=Eggplant, mussels, savory yogurt dip, olives, pepper salsa, hummus....mmm...
Honeyed pastries and nuts or fresh peaches are for dessert. A wide variety of breads are soft or crusty according to their nature, and hot from oven. We've been enjoying "mezes", like  tapas, and made with whatever is fresh in the market that day.  Tiny cups of strong Turkish coffee or little tulip-shaped glasses of tea, made from linden flower, apple or other botanicals, finish the meal.
Refreshing drinks at a cafe, in a centuries old caravanserrai. These buildings were provided as way stations, a day's ride apart throughout the Ottoman empire for merchants to rest their pack animals and store cargo in safety.


I can't spend enough time admiring the lovely carpets , each a work of art and artisanship. The carpet merchants entice me in, close the doors behind me and roll out one lovely carpet after another. They lyrically describe the intricate techniques of weaving, the months it takes to complete one, and the design characteristics of the different traditions in Turkey and beyond. The choices are endless ,and  I've resisted... so far. 

There is also beautiful
pottery, hand-painted and embellished with glazed relief.   




Love little Turkish Ali Baba dude!


Talismans to protect against the evil eye are everywhere.  It's fun to see where they
are located and what form they take.  Usually a  blue eyeball  stylized in
fused glass, the image also appears woven into fabrics,  painted on
propane gas cylinders, peeking out from refrigerator magnets.  A large glass one is hung on the wall of the pool
enclosure, a modern and sophisticated building.

We had intended to depart yesterday to cruise east along the Turkish coast, but due to some bureaucratic requirements it looks like we will sail for Rhodes and the Greek islands of the Dodecanese on Monday!



1 comment:

  1. Greetings Diane! So happy to hear that your travels were pleasant and that “life is good” aboard Celedor!!! Thank you for sharing your wonderfully descriptive impressions of Marmaris - the landscape and artistry are beautiful and I can almost hear the sounds and taste the healthy local fare - an exotic delight indeed!! Wishing Celedor’s crew fair winds and comfortable seas throughout your voyage:). Cheers!, Lisa

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