Nisyros by Motorbike

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Today is our day to tour the island of Nisyros by motorbike.  German friends Irene and Winfried , prepared a delightful breakfast buffet of fresh bread, sweet local onions and tomatoes, pastrami, yogurt. We walked down the street in Pali village where we are moored, rent  motor bikes and hit the road.

Celador motorcycle club

 This island is greener than most we've seen so far. Almost every hillside on this end of the island has been terraced extensively with cascades of dry stone walls over generations. Little stone huts are built into the hillsides here and there, blending in to the landscape.

Here are the terraces...and yes, this is a relatively green island!

 In earlier times grape vines, peppers, onions, potatoes, tomatoes, grain, olive trees and were cultivated. Today nothing is planted, but fig, olive, and scrub oak shade the terraces, their trunks leaning in to the old stones. The road snaked higher and higher, and the air cooled, scented by dry grass and rosemary. Topping a crest, we could now see the ancient caldera of the volcano which formed the island.   We followed the winding ribbon of road down and down to the bottom, where farm fields checker the flat crater bottom.  Ahead is the volcano national park. Entering, we saw cinder cones and cliffs streaked with sulfur-colored rock; it is primal, timeless, unconquerable. Following a footpath down to the center of the newest crater, the ground sounded precariously  hollow underfoot and there were bubbling mud pots.

Sulfur crystals at the mouth of a fumarole

Fumeroles steamed , with crystalline crusts of sulfur around their vents. Satisfied (and slightly unsettled) with our explorations, we walked back to the visitor center, regrouped over cool drinks of water, and continued our ride.   Zig-zagging up out of the valley we rode to the scenic little village perched on the highest edge of the crater, white cubic buildings clinging to the ridgetop.

We had a light lunch of cheese and fresh Greek salad, with topped with pickled caper-vine leaves. Delicious.

The million dollar view.

 In the front room of the cafe was a broken mercury glass mirror in an old and ornately carved wooden frame, and next to it hung a sepia-toned portrait of a young soldier from the 1940's.  I asked about the mirror. The host explained that the young soldier was from Athens and was killed right on the doorstep during WWII, the mirror broken by a bullet. They still honor to his memory.  Walking through the little cubist village, we found the natural sauna (a little room over a volcanic vent).

 We continued on down to the town of Mandraki to visit the town and castle.  The streets are pretty narrow lanes with white washed houses and painted doorways.

So many pretty views in the warren of lanes...

Many have interesting cast brass knockers and doorknobs and whimsical artistic decorations.

 We made our way to the monastery and beheld sweeping views of the white  town, the hazy sea and nearby islands.

Lots of architectural shots...it was a quiet day in the lanes of Nicyros.

 We continued uphill to the edge of town, past ruins of little farm cottages built into the hillside terraces, up and up to the walls of the fort.  Massive black volanic blocks comprised the walls of the Hellenistic battlements. We rambled through the fort, climbing to the top of the  walls, more sweeping views of the horizon lost in sea mist.

Returning to Pali, we dined again at the Captain's Place, on kebabs and mezes. Returning to the boat, we continued the party with red wine, watching the sailors having fun in the little tavernas and cafes along the quay astern of the boat.

As the night grew later, the cafes wound down and  the tavernas livened up. At Saloniki Taverna, the music of a traditional viola-like instrument inspired strapping young Greek with a fuzzy pony tail, perhaps a family proprietor, to start a circle dance in the Greek way. Tipsy German sailors joined enthusiastically with their own interpretations. In the boat, we laugh and chat in the cockpit, growing sleepier from a busy day. At last Irene and Wilfried raised the white flag and retired to bed. Ron followed directly.  I had a yearning to go over and join the dance, and I think----The Time is Now!  I tiptoed cross over the passerelle to the quay and hurried over.  As I entered, the young man rose from the table and I smiled and said "Ella!"  He grinned and started the dance. We were joined quickly by the Germans and the "dancing bear".  It was an easy step; one step left and two right.  An old lady sitting with her husband caught my eye, she smiled and nodded approvingly that I'd learned the step. The song ended too soon, and it was late. The old lady stood and with a sweeping gesture, announced "Kali Nicta"...(good night... this party's shutting down).  I shook the Greek lad's hand, and got Euro kisses on the cheek. I shook the old lady's hand, we smiled at each other about the dance.  I turned to go, and one of the workers pointed back and said ..."the papa".  I turned and shook hands with the old man too. It was yet another fine moment  to remember.

Kas and the Sunken City of Kekova

 We've docked in the new and luxurious Kas Marina, just a short walk from town.  The day warms up early, promising to be a hot one in the marina. On the short walk into town, we pass Lycian saddle-back tombs, improbably appearing in  parking lots, in the back of boatyards, and tops overturned being used as planters.

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Lycian tomb

The walk to town is pleasant and offers shade, the streets clean, shops open and welcoming.  There are flowering trees, and cobbled streets graciously lined with cafes, little shops selling cotton gauze clothes, evil eyes,  hand made soft leather shoes with curving pointy toes, bulk spices and frankincense resin.

 The old town is a Cultural Heritage site, and rightly so. I buy a little bag of mint so we can make our own mint yogurt sauce, and some incense.

 Walking up the main street, we enter another carpet store, invited by the owner who obviously adores his work. Over tulip glasses of apple tea, he explains about the traditional patterns, dyes, and uses of the carpets we are shown. I admire them all!

Walking on, we find the pedestal-base of the tall King's tomb with weathered lion heads carved on the beam ends.

We decide to remain in the coolness of the town, so we stop for Turkish coffee and apple tea at a cafe, and stay for a lunch of kebab and grilled whole sea bass, with luscious seasonal tomatoes. English and Russian day trippers meander by; Turkish moms wearing headscarves and long dresses pushing strollers, a Euro-beauty dressed with effortless style, two little boys playfully jostling.  A strapping young Turkish shopkeeper grins like a child as his grandmother approaches in the street. He bows his head to her breast and she kisses his hair three times, smiling with pride. We stop at an ice cream stand selling flavors like mulberry, pomegranate and pistachio. Vendors of raw almonds display their tender wares on a block of ice, offering samples to entice us. It was a leisurely day ashore seeing the sights, eating great food and people watching.

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Recipe: Ridiculously Easy Turkish Haydari Dip

1 C. thick Greek yogurt
1 tsp. dried mint, (or use dill weed as a variation), or more to taste
a sprinkle of garlic powder, optional.

Mix and let sit for a half hour or so for the herbs to impart their flavor.  Enjoy with crudites, crusty bread, pita chips, on grilled meat or kebabs.

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The next day we depart Kas for Kekova and Ucugiz.  We got underway a little later than we had hoped. Had to wait for the marina to open at 9:00, then for the dinghy guys to cast off our bow.  Motored for a few hours for the sunken island of Kekova. We dock at the village of Simena, just across from it, at Hassan's Restaurant .Hassan's mom and the girls waved us in and assisted us with dock lines. Above Hassan's is a large castle ruin, which time did not permit us to explore ( it was getting pretty hot too!). We had a beverage and snacks and enjoyed the view shaded by red hibiscus plants.

Across from us was the sunken city, tumbled, shifted and partially submerged by an earthquake 20 centuries ago.  A parade of wooden "gulet" tour boats cruised past the restaurant and circled the bay, viewing the ruins. We got Celador underway and joined the parade. The ruins were cut from the living stone, blocks carved out in such that the back wall was solid rock and the front of buildings were block.  Most had tumbled, leaving only a few standing doorways or windows.  You could see submerged foundations at the waters' edge.

  We viewed to our content, then motored west into a little bay near Ucagiz, which was shallow enough to anchor. Twilight fell, and the wind and water were absolutely still and silent but for the sounds of cicadas and roosters, and an occasional distant voice. Night fell with the muezzins' call to prayer echoing over the water, a reminder of the antiquity of the traditions and land all around us.

A Visit to Caunos and the Carian Tombs

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The local boat showed up promptly at 9:00 to collect us for half day trip to Turtle beach, the ancient city of Caunos, Carian Tombs and Dalyan. Just Ron and me, with John and Turu, his teenaged son who is learning from his dad to be a boatman.

Fish on! John and his son Turu with a bonita on the hook.

Motoring east, we passed close by some sea caves, and piney landscapes which looked like Northern Michigan.  As we approached the river delta, I could smell fresh water.  Only boats from the local cooperative of tourist boats can go up the river. 

Inside the sand bar, the tour boats on the river.

Slipping behind the sand bar, suddenly we were in a sea of grass with clear waterways running like paths thru it. We pulled over to a small dock where other boats loaded with Russian tourists were parked. A local guy with a huge blue crab on a string was casting the crab into the water to attract Loggerhead turtles. Soon two (Mr. and Mrs.) came in to chase the crab. Everyone loved the turtles. Locals offered to sell us crabs, cooked and cracked, on the return trip, so I ordered two plates .

On we went, up the river to dock up at Caunos. Situated at modern Dalyan, it was a prosperous city built before the 6th century BC. Alexander the Great passed through here, and Herodotus gave it a glowing report, his only negative comment being "The natives of Kaunos have a greenish pallor", due to malaria. Malaria is no longer a threat, and we didn't encounter many mosquitoes either. The city was a great seaport in antiquity, but the sea receded due to river silting and the port filled in. It was eventually abandoned. The city has an agora, baths, the large amphitheater with a grand arched entrance with carved marble panels lying on the ground in front, and other ruined buildings.

Ancient olive trees made a pool of cool shade, and I tasted a green olive, very bitter and astringent.The battlements of the high citadel stand out against the sky, and of course I needed to see what was up there.

Whose idea was this?!?!?  (Mine, tee hee)

 We climbed and scrambled up and up over rough limestone crags to the acropolis, picking our way as there was no trail. Clambering among the battlements, we had only black donkeys for company. (How did THEY get up here?!?!) There were sweeping panoramas of farm fields and orchards, and the river winding to the sea, with fish corrals reaching across it as they did in ancient days. Scrambling back down the steep rocky face was challenging; we were drenched with sweat and trying not to slip and tumble over the rocks.

"This way down!"

We were happy to make it back at the boat, gulping down two liters of water between us and savored the cool shade of the tourboat's awnings.

The boat continued upstream through more hammocks of tall grass and pulled in near the famous Carian cliff tombs; majestic timeworn structures carved from the living stone.

We chuckled, glad there were no opportunities to climb these ruins. We motored a short distance further upstream and docked in Dalyan town, a delightful surprise. In a cafe along the quay we savored rich, freshly pressed pomegranate juice, water, mezes and samphire, or glasswort, cooked in butter and lemon).(My Florida ecologist friend Lisa showed me this plant growing wild throughout the Indian River Thousand Islands!)

A cool place to enjoy the view...

and the Mezes...a platter of various dips and snacks, always healthy
and delicous .Served with warm fresh bread

Walked thru Dalyan town, sorry my camera battery was exhausted.  It had a colorful, funky beach-town vibe. Bought evil eye charms for the girls, some yogurt, parsley and lemons. Back on the tourboat, we decided to forego the mud baths. We picked up the crabs and enjoyed the cruise back to Celador. I sat on the fantail and picked the meat from crabs, had a swim, cooked the last of the bonito and taboulleh for dinner, and Ron and I watched the sun set on another full day.

Ozymandias

I met a traveller from an antique land
Who said: Two vast and trunkless legs of stone
Stand in the desert. Near them on the sand,
Half sunk, a shatter'd visage lies, whose frown
And wrinkled lip and sneer of cold command
Tell that its sculptor well those passions read
Which yet survive, stamp'd on these lifeless things,
The hand that mock'd them and the heart that fed.
And on the pedestal these words appear:
"My name is Ozymandias, king of kings:
Look on my works, ye Mighty, and despair!"
Nothing beside remains: round the decay
Of that colossal wreck, boundless and bare,
The lone and level sands stretch far away.

by Percy Bysshe Shelley