London is a fascinating city. You can read all the history you want, but when seen in person, it declares with elegant and regal architecture that it was the throne of a great empire. Modern buildings proclaim its place as a center of commerce and banking. It has endured the centuries, the fall of Rome, the Great Fire and the Blitz, and reveals itself around every corner. I traveled there in January, when the weather was "bitter cold " by English standards; mild for a Michigander. There was no ice!
 |
| You can enlarge any photo by clicking on it. |
Marble Arch, the landmark which gave its name to the Tube station where we started each day to explore London. Originally it was the main gate to Buckingham Palace, but Queen Victoria had it moved. We walked at least six miles each day, not including tube (subway) rides. Nearby is a favorite cafe called "Tyburn Tree", which serves delicious eggs benedict,
located near the former site of the famous gallows of old London.
located near the former site of the famous gallows of old London.
 |
| "The Idle Apprentice,Executed at Tyburn Tree", by Hogarth The gallows is that triangular structure. |
Buckingham Palace for tea with the Queen. Crowds were gathering for
the changing of the guard. In winter, the crowds are much lighter.
the changing of the guard. In winter, the crowds are much lighter.
Her Majesty's golden gate at Buckingham Palace.
We enjoyed watching the birds at nearby St. James's Park. Flocks of tame swans, geese, grebes and all kinds of waterbirds find a scenic refuge in the middle of the city.
On the other side of St. James's Park, the Queen's House Guard are headquartered. Their kit has changed little since the Duke of Wellington commanded the dragoons in the war against Napoleon.
Strolling around the Mall, where beautiful Georgian architecture frames this statue of
Captain James Cook. Nautical charts drawn from Cook's surveys were so accurate
Captain James Cook. Nautical charts drawn from Cook's surveys were so accurate
that in many parts of the world they are still in use.
In Westminster, Big Ben dominates the skyline with neo-gothic grace.
I learned that Big Ben is technically the bell, not the tower itself. Thanks, Jim.
I learned that Big Ben is technically the bell, not the tower itself. Thanks, Jim.
At the Red Lion Pub, our English lunch was a savory pork pie with cabbage and
mashed potatoes. I never encountered instant potatoes anywhere in Britain!
Washed it down with some crisp local hard cider.
Inside the Red Lion. British pubs have a warm lively atmosphere.
On to Westminster Abbey, where royalty have been
married, crowned and buried for a thousand years.
 |
| Prince Charles and Lady Di were married at Westminster... |
 |
| ...Elizabeth II was crowned Queen here.... |
 |
| and the Queen Elizabeth I is entombed at Westminster, along with dozens of others great and good..and notorious. |
Enough of royalty! Time to make my professional pilgrimage to see the Broad Street Pump,
where Dr. John Snow used scientific method for the first time to identify the source of an
outbreak of cholera which raged through the city in the mid 1800's.
A new discipline, epidemiology, was born. Unfortunately, during this visit the actual pump
had been temporarily removed for safety as there was massive construction going on.
had been temporarily removed for safety as there was massive construction going on.
Rats! (Oh wait, that was a different plague.)
It's pleasant to walk along the Thames river, watching boats on the river and the skyline.
The London Eye. I would love to see the views from the top of that (on a clear day, of course!)
The dome of St. Paul's, and a modern footbridge leading to it. London has
fantastic juxtapositions of antique and modern buildings at every turn.
Barge traffic on Father Thames.
A stop for a hot cup of coffee across from St. Paul's Cathedral.
We entered the church to find a service about to begin, so we listened
and admired the music and the elegant decoration of the soaring vaulted dome.
Night time in London is colorful, and the streets are buzzing with people out and about.
There is food, music, dance and theater!
 |
| Piccadilly Circus, so named because of the circular route of the street. |
The courtyard of this Georgian building has been converted into a lively skating venue for the winter.
Walk a few blocks from Selfridges (a wonderful destination for those inclined to shop)
and you'll find the Wallace Collection. Housed in a former stately home, it contains
famous paintings as well as an extensive and exotic collection of early fire arms and
finely wrought armor from around the world, including fine Moorish and Samurai pieces.
 |
| The Laughing Cavalier, by Frans Hals. He is neither laughing, nor a cavalier, but it made a good story! The reproduction silk damask wall coverings in this and other museums are naturally fire retardant and meet modern safety standards. |
You knew there would be boats....near the Royal Naval Academy lies the beautiful Cutty Sark,
the fastest clipper ship ever to sail. Built of solid teak and American oak, she is sleek and lovely.
In the gallery below the ship is a fabulous collection of figure heads. Cutty Sark's figurehead is
the white witch in the center, holding the tail of Tam O'Shanter's poor horse! In Scottish, the name "Cutty Sark" means "short dress", which the fair, fleet and furious witch wore as she danced,
in the famous poem Tam O'Shanter by Robert Burns. Read the whole poem in Scottish and English at http://www.robertburns.org.uk/Assets/Poems_Songs/tamoshanter.htm
at:
at:
Tam lost his reason altogether,
And roars out, 'Weel done, Cutty-sark!'
And in an instant all was dark!"
The elegant domes of the Old Royal Naval Academy. It is all more vast than it appears.
The chapel of the Naval Academy. Splendid.
Another morning we cut through Hyde Park, with this charming cottage in the middle of London.
 |
| At the top of the Serpentine lake, in Hyde Park. |
 |
| Here is Harrod's, where the super-wealthy people shop for Chanel, Louise Vuitton, Gucci, and other luxury brands, in marble halls. |
 |
| Definitely not PayLess! |
 |
| Ron took me to tea at Harrod's, with clotted Devon cream as thick as butter, scones, and Earl Grey tea. All priced under a hundred dollars! |
 |
| Browsing through stalls at Covent Garden |
 |
| A typical ride on the Tube, or subway system. What an efficient way to move people. "Mind the Gap"! |
 |
In the banking and business center of town, at Canary Wharf, in Dock Greenwich Observatory, the epicenter of navigational discoveries in the age of exploration. Here lies the Greenwich Meridian at Longitude zero, which divides the world into the eastern and western hemispheres. |
 |
| Here I am, one foot in the Eastern Hemisphere, and one in the West. |
At the Maritime Museum at Greenwich, we saw Admiral Horatio Nelson's uniform,
the one he wore when he was mortally wounded by a sniper at the Battle of Trafalgar.
It's a big deal to fans of "Master and Commander"!
After walking for hours all over Greenwich, we paused for a break at the Borough Market.
French cheeses, sausages, and food from all over Britain and Europe tempted us.
They make a mean Cajun Shrimp wrap, too. (who knew!?)
 |
| Beautiful winter produce. |
 |
| Right outside the Market is the Shard, a landmark of the modern London skyline. |
We toured the National Gallery in London, full of masterworks and impossible to see in a day
or even a week. One can be overcome by the abundance of brilliant artworks.
 |
| A favorite by Raoul Dufy....a tiger in a lightening storm |
 |
| The skating rink at the Natural History Museum.. |
 |
| And on to the splendid Victoria and Albert Museum. They've left the damage caused by a German bomb which fell in the middle of the street. A bit of living history. This and all the museums in this story are part of the British National Trust and the admission is FREE. |
 |
| A thousand splendid sculptures reproduced here. Amazing. As well as ancient costumes, paintings, glass and every art form imaginable, with the finest specimens of each! |
 |
| The courtyard of the Victoria and Albert. Many of the collections here were assembled by Prince Albert himself. |
 |
| Another night in London, when the parks and squares were decorated with light sculptures and illuminations. |
The tower of London, built by William the Conqueror shortly after 1066. His was the last successful invasion of the British Isles. (Yeah, there were the Vikings, but they were raiders and traders...)
The famous "Beefeaters" lead tours through the grounds of the Tower. I learned that they're
not just tourist guides, but are hired from the ranks of retired senior enlisted military men
who served with distinction. Thus there's a level of military security as well as
knowledgeable and colorful customer service.
I could spend days inside the British Museum. A half-day visit only skimmed some of the
highlights of this incredible collection of cultural masterpieces from all over the world.
Yes, they are the relics of Empire and the ownership of many are in dispute...
but marvelous nonetheless.
but marvelous nonetheless.
 |
| Ramses the Great, in the great hall near the entrance. |
Back on the streets, with double decker bus, English mailbox, and
whimsical decorations hanging above Piccadilly Circus.
St. Paul's cathedral as seen from a walk along the Thames.
 |
| One of my favorite little places was the "Lamb and Flag", one of the oldest pubs in London. Its original license was issued in the late 1500's. It used to be called "The Bucket o' Blood", for the brawls that took place nightly. It is cozy and lively, with a little coal fireplace, warm snugs, and a variety of ciders, ales and good pub fare. Many, many thanks to Ron for his knowledgeable guidance and jolly good company, as always! |
 |
| "Lor' luv a duck! See yew later. Know what I mean?"* |
*For quirky translations of English into London's cockney rhyming slang (see above!) , go to : http://www.cockneyrhymingslang.co.uk/cockney_translator/
