Around Nassau Town

I found myself at liberty to wander the streets of Nassau and Paradise Island for three weeks, much longer than the average cruiser would normally choose to remain in bustling Nassau.

To be honest, Nassau has a rough reputation, and several locals confirmed that I should watch myself as I rambled alone around the city.  A marina owner told me that in the area east of the bridges linking Nassau to Paradise Island, several people- including a couple of big burly men -had had jewelry snatched right off their necks  by local toughs with fast hands and faster feet. To combat the situation, the police maintain a visible presence in the blocks surrounding the cruise ship docks, and plain-clothes policemen and bicycle cops patrol the main thoroughfares and tourist areas of the city.  While exploring on foot, I turned down a narrow pedestrian lane several blocks away from the harbor.  A voice called out from the garden of a tiny wooden house, and the old man kindly warned me to keep to the main roads and not to venture into the neighborhoods. 

My friend who kept me safe.

That said, in three weeks of rambling I had no trouble, and many friendly, interesting encounters with local people.  Still, it is advisable to maintain an active situational awareness when out and about, and to head back to the boat before darkness falls.

I spent a day exploring the splendid Atlantis resort on Paradise Island.  For $125 a day, you can have full access to all amenities.  In addition to grand, whimsical architecture, granite floors and mosaic domes, there is a large water park, pools, gardens, shops and a private beach. 

"In Xanadu did Kublai Khan a stately pleasure dome decree.."

The aquariums were a highlight, showcasing the full range of local reef fish, sharks, rays, and  jellyfish illuminated to enhance their otherworldly morphology. Even for an experienced diver, there was much to admire.

It was time to hit the streets. The old town of Nassau centers around the cruise ship docks and stretches for blocks in all directions. The oldest building, Balcony House museum dates from the early 1700’s and many coral stone Georgian and Victorian structures still nestle along narrow streets. 

Balcony House , the oldest house in Old Nassau

Colonial-era Government House and Parliament Square buildings painted tropical pink are adorned by fine statues of Columbus and Queen Victoria. Occasionally a horse-drawn surrey clip-clops by.

Government House

The Queen’s Staircase, cut into the living stone and climbing to Fort Fincastle, is impressive. Walking up Blue Hill Road, you pass through older areas of town to the Graycliff Hotel. Built by a reformed buccaneer after Woodes Rogers cleaned up the pirate stronghold which was Nassau in the early 1700’s, the restored mansion hosts a fine hotel furnished with antique furniture, and lush gardens where you can find refreshment.  

The Graycliffe Hotel

A short walk further takes you to the Art Museum of the Bahamas, a delightful respite from the heat and noise of the city.

Food is expensive in the Bahamas. You can find great local food at local prices at Fish Fry Beach, just to the west of downtown.  Originally this area consisted of little shacks cobbled together with local vendors cooking it up with whatever they had.  Later, the structures were improved by government grants, and the area is now tidy and colorful, and is popular with locals and tourists alike.  It is situated on a lovely beach.

Another great place for lunch is “Under the Dock”, located beneath the easternmost span to Paradise Island.  

Conch salad  in progress....mmmmmmmmmm.

Walk under the bridge leading to Potter’s Cay where the fishing and conch boats moor and you’ll find rows of small shops where you can get a fresh conch salad and a local Sands beer for around $12. 

Carol and Ken Unda da Dock  :)

 Walk east on Potters Cay, and find the local fishing fleet moored on the south side. You can buy fresh conch right off the boat, and watch them be cleaned and sliced so that they’re salad-ready. Four conchs, enough for two big salads, sell for around $10. You can also buy cobia, permit, several varieties of snapper and other fresh panfish here.

While buying fish off the “Last Day”, skipper C.W. Malone  told us his and other local boats recently signed to be filmed in a reality show about Bahamian fishing. I hope it's not like "Real Housewives".....

Captain Malone

Once you’ve bought your seafood, the market ladies nearby can provide the vegetables you’ll need to make your own conch salads back on the boat.

Roaming around Nassau Town was a surprisingly good time.  Most of all, the friendly good nature of the local people I met, who politely and protectively guided me in my wanderings, and who shared their stories, recipes and customs, made these weeks a happy and memorable visit.

With special thanks to D'Angelo...

...Mary and Keith...

....Donna, Indira,and all my other friends who made my visit unforgettable.

* Note, due to a malware hit on my computer, I lost a lot of photos I would have otherwise included. To my other Bahama pals, love and hugs.



A version of this article appears in the August 2014 edition of Blue Water Sailing Magazine.