A view of the Castle from Brown’s Court.
You can enlarge any photo by clicking on it.
I’ve been wanting to come back to Edinburgh for some time, to get to know it better. I booked two weeks at an AirBnB in the old and centrally located Grassmarket neighborhood. Grassmarket is home to some of the oldest pubs in the city, a square where justice was meted out and lively markets were held by decree since before the 1500’s. The castle looms above. Perfect.
Stan, my gracious AirBnB host, met me at the airport and we took the tram to city center. As we walked from the tram stop in St. Andrew’s Square to Grassmarket he pointed out sites of interest and good restaurants, and escorted me to the flat which we entered through Edmonton’s Close, a passage between buildings protected by two gates. Stan was also kind enough to say that if I needed help or a spare key I could call on Marshall who owns the Mussel & Steak restaurant right next to Edmonton’s Close. Good to know.
I never would have found my place by myself; through a gate, down a close with another locking gate, and across a small court with several doors. I enjoyed Stan’s cheerful good company and the orientation to his hometown very much. I was off to a good start.
My goal was to explore the city on foot, and learn the byways through the closes, wynds and courts. What is a close, a wynd? The majestic Old Town of Edinburgh is essentially still a medieval city which grew up around the 12th century castle, assuming its much of its present form by the the 17th century. Confined by the city walls, the city grew upwards with multi-story tenements housing rich and poor alike. Sanitation was non-existent, and the city was nicknamed “Auld Reekie” for the stench. The city is laid out like a fish skeleton; the Royal Mile is the spine, and the fine ribs are the closes, pedestrian alleyways, often with steps, running between the buildings. A wynd is like a close with a turn in it. A court is a courtyard, often with other ways running off of it.The old city is full of them. I hoped to explore and learn the routes of as many as I could.
Here is a link to a great resource about the city :Edinburgh World Heritage
On the first day I toured Edinburgh Castle and strolled the Royal Mile as far as Holyrood Palace, the official seat of the Crown when in Scotland. I browsed shops like Armstrong’s Resale, a wonderland of cool stuff.
I went into the Mussel & Steak to introduce myself to Marshall, who joined me in conversation for nearly an hour. He has traveled widely in China and has many friends there, and I enjoyed hearing his stories and views. In celebration of a great day, I stayed to dine on lush briny oysters on the half shell from the cold waters of the Isle of Lewis, and tender, heather-fed Highland venison tenderloins. Delicious.
In the next few days, I visited the Real Mary’s Close, (recommended by my local hosts), an interesting introduction to the social history of the city and a glimpse into what it must have been like living in multi-story tenements. I learned more about the city’s fascinating history at the Museum of Edinburgh.
The weather was sunny and fair, so I walked the stony, grassy paths up to Arthur’s Seat, a volcanic formation overlooking the city. There I chatted with a man from an English walking group, and afterward stopped by the ancient Tollbooth Tavern for a cold cider.
Later I visited the Surgeons Hall museum, featuring early devices and specimens from the dawn of modern medicine. Interestingly, injuries from being run over by carts were the most commonly treated condition back in the early 1800’s. In New Town I visited the Royal Botanical Gardens. It was a drizzly day, and the renowned Glass Houses were closed, but the rock garden was gorgeous and cherry trees were blooming.
I lingered in a lovely little independent bookstore and looked for old books about exploration with Rab, the owner. He directed me to Robert Louis Stevenson’s birth home and told me how places in the city inspired places in Treasure Island.
I browsed shops, and bought some fudge (the recipe originated in Mackinaw Island!). The next day was the semi-final game of Six Nations Rugby, and it was fun to sit in the packed pub and watch the game…and the fans. Brawny Scots with kilts and crooked noses packed the crowd. Scotland beat Italy, and groups of despondent fans dressed as Roman soldiers consoled themselves in the pubs after.
On Sunday I walked the path along the Water of Leith to explore picturesque Dean Village, then down through Stockbridge to find it’s popular Sunday food market in full swing, featuring local honey and cheeses, baked goods, mead, homemade tortellini, sweet smelling soaps and lotions.
Arriving in Leith, I stopped for a warming lunch of Cullen Skink, Scottish smoked fish chowder, and went on to tour the Royal Yacht Britannia. Last time I saw her she was berthed in Antigua, in 1983 and a rocking crew party was in full swing…minus the royal family! Now she’s permanently berthed, with a gift shop and tea room. Her bridge was so old fashioned, straight out of the 1950’s, and it made me smile. Inside, the decor and furnishings were rather plain. I guess when you live in 18th century gilded splendor all the time as the Queen did, you appreciate a simple space you can just relax in. It was a fun visit. I walked 13 miles this day.
In the morning I walked around Holyrood Park to watch the swans on a very windy day, and later stopped by Clarinda’s Tea Room for tea and carrot cake. It is quaint and charming, like having tea at Grandma’s house.
Next I visited the National Museum featuring the amazing Lewis Chess men, carved in the Viking Era out of walrus ivory,
I meandered back to Grassmarket and stopped by the White Hart, founded in 1514, the oldest pub in Scotland, and said to be haunted (as so many places here are). Their haggis was very good, but Stan said the best is served with a rich dark whisky sauce at the Arcade. I tried it, and have to agree with him!
The fair weather continued. I toured Holyrood Palace, home to Mary Queen of Scots, and the present Royal Family while in the city. Of all the reputedly “haunted” places I’ve visited in Edinburgh, the ancient winding narrow stair to Mary’s bed chamber unexpectedly gave me a feeling…
Returning to the warm sunshine, Holyrood’s grounds are beautiful; a ruined abbey, a lovely garden.
The ruined 12th century abbey at Holyrood.I climbed Salisbury Crag and admired the fantastic view in all directions. On the way home I explored shops and Advocates and Warriston closes, and dined on terrific Scottish mussels at the Mussel & Steak. On the way back I sat in a doorway and chatted with James, a street magician whom I befriended earlier in the week. Super nice guy.
A high point was a private day-tour of the highlands with Justin, and three other guests. We drove to Glasgow, up to Glencoe, and visited lochs and castles, munros (mountains over 3000 feet high) saw Ben Nevis the highest peak in the UK , and saw the Kelpies at Falkiirk. While walking around a ruined Campbell castle, the path ended in a bog but we went on, soaking our shoes and laughing as our guide was like a cat, he hated getting his feet wet! We had a ball!
The famous Kelpies at Falkirk.
They are nasty water spirits in the shape of horses.
Another high point was when Ron and Liz came down from Tain, in the Highlands, to visit me. Ron and I have sailed together far and wide in the past, aboard his boat Celador. He reconnected with his long-ago sweetheart Liz, annd they married a few years ago. We had such a great time catching up, climbing the Crags, eating roast pig, tea and shortbread and just having fun hanging out. They gave me a lovely silver brooch in the shape of a thistle as a surprise. I love it! When it came time for them to leave, it started to rain. I used my newfound knowledge of the closes to take the short way back to the bus station. We went from Grassmarket up the North Castle Wynd, across High Street and down Advocate’s close, where there is a pub called the Devil’s Advocate right in the middle of the descending stairway of the close. We stopped to get out of the rain and had a glass of wine, then went on to the bus station for fond farewells and hopeful plans for getting together again soon.
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