Tuesday, June 14, 2016

Sailing: A Day in Hydra, Greece May 2016


A map of the Argo-Saronic islands of Greece.
You can enlarge any photo by clicking on it.
The hand-shaped peninsula of Greece, the Pelopponese , reaches down toward Crete. Off the thumb of Pelopponese lie the islands of Poros, Aegina, Hydra, and others, in a group called the Argo-Saronic islands.  We sailed from Poros down to Hydra, or Ydra, to see and explore another little Greek island. What a jewel box it is!
Motorsailing on another crystal clear day, Ydra rises out of the sea.
Approaching Ydra the town is mostly hidden.
 Slowly it appears as you turn to enter the tiny harbor.  
There are no cars on Ydra (except a couple of  heavy trucks for hauling stone).
All transport of food, garden plants, and people,  is done with mules and donkeys.
It is a blissfully quiet town, with clopping of hooves and an occasional bray of a donkey ringing out.
Ydra is a posh destination,  accessible only by boat, reminding me of St.Barth's in the Caribbean.
                           
The harbor is tiny, and is crammed full of boats, both visiting yachts and the local fishing fleet.
Fishing is supposed to be pretty good along the coast of Ydra.

Two sleepy mules, waiting for the next job.  Healthy and well cared-for.

Walking along the waterfront in the harbor.

Ydra is proud of it's pivotal role in the War of Greek Independence from the Ottoman Empire, which began in 1821. The skill and daring of Ydriot captains and sailors was legendary. The statue is of Ydriot Captain Economou, who lead Greek naval resistance. In one battle they sent fireships among a fleet of Turkish frigates, to devastating effect.
In the museum... a collection of paintings of Ydriot sailors from that war, which was publicized
   in the West by the participation and writings of George Gordon, Lord Byron (pictured below in Greek attire).


In the cool  morning I wandered the streets and climbed up steep steps into the high town. Here are winding flights of the old town stairway.  Heart's a-thumping.  Along the way I was (as always) rewarded by beautiful views and intimate glimpses of old homes and hidden gardens.
From the top of the town, a view of the harbor in the early morning.
I followed the wide stone path along the sea coast, and found lovely views at every turn.
This is high-end real estate. Leonard Cohen has a home here.

Nice place!  Visitors must walk or ride muleback to their accommodations,
while local porters carry their baggage ahead

The walkway goes from wide ocean views to shady pine bowers.

Typical sea view of Greece. Blue water, white chapel.

From wide seascape to lush garden.

A harbor too tiny for yachts, but home to the local fishing fleet.

Tranquil and quiet.
I stopped at this cafe for a rest and lounge.

A pebble beach lapped by aquamarine water, clear as glass.
Heading back to Ydra harbor.
Because the harbor is so tiny, boats must raft up to one another, often accomplished with more enthusiasm than skill. Rod Heikkel's cruising guide says that anchor chains here are like spaghetti; you will become entangled. Accept it for a fact of life!

Our jolly Belorussian neighbors, whom we met in Aegina.  Nice people.
Here we are, rafted up with four boats outboard of us.  The jolly Belorussians were next door and boat number one on the bow, and a flotilla of Scottish teenagers were boats number two, three and four.  Lots of traffic over the decks, though not ours...the Belorussians got all that.

A local mule-skinner transporting a load of landscape plants.

I just had to photograph this guy; he's Popeye the Sailorman !
Sorry I didn't have the chance to meet him.

Gliding above turquoise depths

The last morning in lovely Ydra.
Girl on the trail.  There are miles of well-marked  trails on Ydra.
I met a Greek hiker who had just completed a four day trek around the island.







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