Peregrina; Walking the Camino de Santiago

September 29 through November 6, 2015

There comes a time in life when we need to examine who we are and where we are going, to ponder where we've been and what it has all meant.  To let go and to embrace. To choose who we wish to become.

Well, at least that's the plan.

I signed up to walk the medieval pilgrim trail west from Roncesvalles (pronounced "ron thes BAHL yayss"), Spain, across about 490 miles of rustic trails and modern roadways, to Santiago de Compostela, known as the resting place of St. James, the patron of Christian warriors who drove the Moors out of Spain in the 10th century. (He's also the patron saint of hat-makers, rheumatoid sufferers, and laborers!)  Lots of history and old stones.  It's physical, mental, and spiritual challenge that I felt it was time for.

El Camino de Santiago.  I flew to Pamplona and met my hiking group there.
 We move  on to  Roncesvalles to begin the Camino.

PAMPLONA   Sept. 29-Oct. 1

I arrived in Pamplona after having my flight itinerary completely changed three times, and without my luggage. Wearing my irreplaceable boots, I made a dozen phone calls (overseas rates apply!) and after two days my bag was delivered. In it are blister bandages and Tiger Balm, trekking poles, three each of yoga pants, tech tee shirts (long and short sleeves), hat,  fleece vest, jacket and rain gear. And more Bengay...in short, everything except the boots.

First step on the Camino.
This a stylized scallop , a trail marker on the Camino.

At the airport in Madrid I began to see other "peregrinos", as the walking pilgrims are called here. Boots and backpacks identify them.  The first I met was Jorge from Brazil. We compared notes as best we could in choppy Spanglish...maybe we'll meet again on the trail.  While wandering in Pamplona I saw several more en route on the Camino, which runs through the heart of the old city.

A peregrina.

There are even Peregrino shops where you can buy stuff you forgot.  While waiting for my gear, I explored Pamplona...

The Ayunamiento, or city hall , where the blessings
 are given for the famous Running of the Bulls .

Festival characters; on the left is Caravinagre

Such pretty parks here.

Ancient building meticulously restored.
On the tile is Basque language, map and symbol.

 A street view in the Casco Viejo...the medieval district

In the Parque de la Taconera

It's so nice to be in Spain. Good red wine, tasty pintxos (the tapas, or small savory snacks of northern Spain), lovely autumn weather, chestnuts on the ground, church bells ringing, artful style and the old stones!  It's gonna be a good Camino.

Mis amigos at Caravinegre Cafe, at the Hotel Maissonave.

On the city wall.

OCTOBER 12.  Day 11 on the Camino.

Wow!  Days and kilometers have passed slowly by.  I've met people from all over the world, and my walking group is wonderful. We are Americans and Canadians and one cheerful, intrepid Aussie. Our Italian trail guides Virginio and Giulio are wonderful. The Camino is wonderful.  My boots are too small, and each day starts with carefully ministering to my mashed-up feet. Starting at the medieval monastery at Roncesvalles, we have walked down through the Pyrenees of Spain with the tinkle of cowbells and piney woods; through the oak forests of Navarra, home to the proud Basques; through rolling, vine-covered Rioja, savoring it's delicious wine made from the Tempranillo grapes we nibbled along the way; and into the wheat fields of Castilla y Leon and the city of Burgos, to see the beautiful cathedral.

So far,  introspection has come in brief flashes, punctuating long stretches of concentrating on the trail and chatting with companions, and trying to ignore the pain in feet, legs and hips. I have had vivid and unusual dreams, as have others here. Our typical day has been like this:  Wake up, dress, repack gear, carefully tend to foot injuries and carefully put on and adjust socks and boots, eat breakfast and set out, walk for 22-29 km over varied terrain and through whatever weather comes, with a lunch break or maybe not; arrive at lodging, take off boots and take a long, hot bath if available, wash and hang clothes, and eat dinner and relax for an hour or so till bedtime, which comes early! Repeat.  We are the fortunate, (some would say pampered), ones who have private rooms waiting for us, and don't have to search out a hostel at the end of a long day.  Grateful!

Tomorrow we visit the majestic cathedral here in Burgos. Today is Spain's national holiday and I witnessed the glorious ringing of all the cathedral bells, which continued for 15 minutes.

Day 1 to Roncesvalles 10 km

The Pyrenees Mountains, with herds of cream colored cattle and tinkling bells.

Day Two, to Zubiri.  22 km.  Here's my Aussie friend Lyn.

A pretty traditional home along the Camino in Navarra

Day 3 to Pamplona.  22 km.  Here is the 12th century bridge, a welcome sight!

Crossing the drawbridge at the French Gate to enter Pamplona.

Day 4 -  24 km. To Puente La Reina.
A windy rainy day on the Sierra del Perdon  (Mountain of Forgiveness).

Photobombing Giulio!

The thousand year old octagonal church of St. Eutate.

The Puente de la Reina, the Queen's bridge 

Day 5 ...22 km to Estella.

Estella in the evening.  Day 5

Day 6 to Los Arcos...22 km

At the Fuente del Vino...a free flowing wine tap! Day 6.

Soaking my poor feet in the icy river in Najera. Day 8

With trail pals Jean-Claude(France) Lyn and Ross (Australia) ,
and Kate and Mark (Wales). Najera Day 8.

Wandering minstrel Manuel, on the trail to Najera Day 8

Through the wheat fields. Day 6

Day 7 To Longrono  28 km.  The church of the Holy Sepulchre
 in Torres del Rio,with Moorish influences and alabaster window

Beautiful Tempranillo grapes of Rioja.

A garden of cairns on the trail.   Day 8

Day 8  to Najera , 29 km.   Left big toe so  mangled, the nail sheared right off from
the swollen and bruised toe. I bought some cheap shoes and cut out the toes
 like Mom used to in late-summers past. It made it possible to continue.

Well, time to stop, there are technical issues!   Next time we walk on to Santo Domingo de la Calzada on Day 9.
                                                         
                                                                     BUEN CAMINO!